Tanzania Lake Manyara National Park: Tree-Climbing Lions and Flamingos

Lake Manyara National Park is often positioned as a brief stop on the drive from Arusha to the Ngorongoro Crater — just 128 km from Arusha, it is typically visited as a half-day game drive before continuing to Karatu for the night. This underestimates the park. Manyara’s 648 sq km of diverse habitat — the rift valley escarpment forest, open groundwater forest, acacia woodland, and the alkaline lake itself — contains an extraordinarily dense and diverse wildlife community. The tree-climbing lions (the behaviour was first documented scientifically at Lake Manyara in 1962), one of East Africa’s finest hippo pools, a massive flamingo presence when lake conditions are right, and the impressive fig forest drive make Manyara a genuine wildlife destination rather than merely a warm-up.

Getting to Lake Manyara from Arusha

The standard route from Arusha to Lake Manyara gate follows the B144 highway west. The road is paved to Makuyuni junction (75 km, 1 hour), then continues west on a gradually deteriorating track toward Mto wa Mbu town (adjacent to the park gate) — 128 km total, approximately 2-2.5 hours. Mto wa Mbu (“Mosquito Creek”) is the last town before the gate and has fuel (fill up here — no fuel in the park), local restaurants, and a small market selling excellent bananas and mangoes (the town is in a fertile irrigation area fed by the escarpment streams). The park gate is 2 km south of Mto wa Mbu on the main road.

The Drive Down the Escarpment Wall

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Lake Manyara is set in the floor of the Rift Valley at 960m altitude, while the park entry road descends from the escarpment top at approximately 1,500m. The park road immediately inside the gate drops through fig forest and groundwater forest in a dramatic 10-minute descent. The air temperature drops 4-5°C as you enter the forest canopy. Black-and-white colobus monkeys sit in the fig trees along the road, completely indifferent to vehicles. The forest is fed by springs from the escarpment — permanent moisture in an otherwise semi-arid landscape creates a lush forest corridor that is exceptional for birds. This escarpment forest drive is one of Tanzania’s finest 10-minute wildlife experiences even before the lake itself comes into view.

Tree-Climbing Lions: What Triggers the Behaviour

The Manyara lions’ tree-climbing habit has been studied since 1962 when Hans Klingel first documented prides consistently resting in fig and acacia trees. The behaviour is attributed to multiple factors: shade from the biting flies (Stomoxys calcitrans, a persistent stable fly) that bother lions at ground level; better breeze at height in the hot lake-floor climate; improved vantage for spotting prey at a distance; and possibly a social tradition passed from generation to generation within specific prides. The lion families that use trees are consistently those whose territory overlaps the groundwater forest and lake shore acacia areas — where the climbing-adapted trees are most available. Manyara prides average 8-12 individuals, and groups of 6-8 lions resting in the same large fig tree on the road edge are regularly seen. Ask the gate rangers for current sighting information before entering.

The Hippo Pool and Lake Shore

The main hippo pool at Lake Manyara is approximately 12 km from the gate on the main park road — a permanent pool at the base of a small waterfall where 150+ hippos congregate year-round. The pool is shallow enough to see the hippos’ full underwater bodies from the bank viewing area. Nile crocodiles share the pool. The midday heat drives hippos into a tight, overlapping mass — they pile on top of each other in the coolest water sections in a tangle of bodies and twitching ears. The lake shore road beyond the hippo pool follows the lake margin through alkaline grassland and seasonal flamingo concentrations. When lake levels are right (low water, concentrated algae), flamingo numbers at Manyara reach 20,000-50,000. In high water years, flamingos move to Lake Natron or Lake Bogoria.

Birds: Over 400 Species in 648 sq km

Manyara’s 400+ species result from the compressed habitat diversity. In a single drive from the gate to the lake shore and back: colobus monkeys and birds of the fig forest (Narina trogon, pale-breasted illadopsis, African pygmy kingfisher), acacia woodland birds (grey-capped social weaver, lilac-breasted roller, superb starling), lake shore species (African fish eagle, saddle-billed stork, little egret), and flamingo if present. The escarpment cliff face above the park road is home to Verreaux’s eagle. The escarpment springs attract the African finfoot to the stream margins — one of East Africa’s most rarely seen waterbirds. Entry fee: USD $53 per person per day + USD $10 vehicle.