The Chyulu Hills in southern Kenya — a 90 km chain of green volcanic cones and lava fields running between Amboseli and Tsavo West, rising to 2,188 m above the Amboseli plain — are one of Kenya’s most dramatically beautiful and least-visited wilderness areas. The hills (part of the UNESCO Chyulu Hills National Park, 741 sq km, gazetted 1983) formed from extremely recent (geologically speaking) volcanic activity — some of the lava fields are estimated to be only 500 years old, making the Chyulu Hills some of the most recently formed landscape features in East Africa. The hills’ high rainfall catchment (the emerald-green vegetation of the hilltops absorbs 1,500 mm of rain annually, which filters through the volcanic rock to emerge at Mzima Springs in Tsavo West 50 km away) stands in stark visual contrast to the surrounding semi-arid Amboseli plain and Tsavo lava desert. The Chyulu Hills are the domain of walking safari, horse safari, and the Ole Donyo area lodges — the vehicle driving safari mindset of the open plain does not translate here. This guide covers Chyulu Hills for 2025.
Leviathan Cave: The Lava Tube
Leviathan Cave — at 13 km length, one of the world’s longest lava tube caves, formed when the surface of an ancient lava flow cooled and solidified while molten lava continued to drain through the interior, leaving an empty tube — is the Chyulu Hills’ most unique specific attraction. The cave’s interior (explored from a single entrance point accessible with a guided tour from the Ol Donyo Lodge or the Chyulu Hills National Park management) has a ceiling height of 3–5 m in the main tube, a floor of solidified lava ropedcord formations, and a population of spiny mice and insectivorous bats that use the cave as a roost. The cave exploration (2–3 hours, headlamp essential, guide mandatory) is not an organised tourist infrastructure — it is a genuine exploration experience with appropriate uncertainty about footing and route. Enquire at Ol Donyo Lodge for current cave access arrangements.
Walking Safari in the Hills
The walking safari programme at the Chyulu Hills (available through Ol Donyo Lodge and the two other Chyulu area camps — Ol Kinyei and Porini Chyulu) uses the Chyulu’s unique combination of big game presence and volcanic hill terrain to provide a walking experience impossible in the open savanna parks. The Mbirikani-Chyulu wildlife corridor (connecting the Chyulu Hills NP with the Amboseli ecosystem) is used by large elephant herds, buffalo, eland, lesser kudu, and occasional lion that cross from the plains into the hills’ lower forest zones. Walking with Maasai guides on the volcanic hill footpaths (rough, undulating terrain — not a flat grass walk) at 1,800–2,000 m altitude, with the Kilimanjaro ice cap visible 60 km south and the Tsavo lava plains visible 30 km east, is one of Kenya’s most distinctive physical safari experiences.
Horse Safari
The Chyulu Hills is the premier horse safari destination in Kenya — the combination of open lava-plain riding at the hills’ base and forested hill trail riding at altitude produces riding terrain that is both spectacular and wildlife-rich. Safaris in Style (the operator running horse safari in the Chyulu area) offers 6-day Chyulu Hills horse safari expeditions (USD $3,000–4,000 per person all-inclusive) with mobile camp — riding 20–30 km per day through the hills and lava plains, encountering elephant, giraffe, zebra, and Maasai cattle herds at close range from horseback. Minimum horse riding competency: intermediate (independent walk, trot, canter required — beginners are not accepted on the Chyulu riding safaris).
Access and Logistics 2025
- From Amboseli: 90 km north, 2–2.5 hours on murram road via Kimana Gate
- From Nairobi: 250 km, 4–5 hours via Mtito Andei road or via Machakos-Kibwezi route
- Light aircraft: 45 minutes from Wilson Airport to Mbirikani Airstrip (adjacent to Ol Donyo Lodge)
- Self-drive note: The Chyulu Hills NP internal roads are rough lava tracks — 4×4 required, low-range 4×4 for the hill tracks. Many visitors access by air and walk/ride rather than drive.
