The drive from Arusha to Dar es Salaam on Tanzania’s A23 highway covers 630 km and takes 9-10 hours, connecting the safari north with Tanzania’s commercial capital and the Indian Ocean coast. For self-drive visitors completing a Northern Circuit safari who want to continue to Zanzibar, Pemba, or the Selous/Ruaha southern circuit, this route is the land connection. It is also used by visitors arriving in Dar es Salaam by international flight and driving north to the safari parks. This guide covers the A23 road conditions, key towns and stops, and practical advice for the long-day drive.
Route Overview: Arusha to Dar es Salaam
The A23 runs south-southeast from Arusha through Moshi, Same, Korogwe, Mombo, Tanga junction, Segera, Korogwe again (the road branches here — one route via Tanga coast, one via Mombo inland), Segera, Chalinze, and finally into Dar es Salaam from the north. The more common inland route avoids the Tanga detour and is slightly shorter. Total via inland route: approximately 630 km.
Road Conditions: A23 Assessment 2024
The A23 is Tanzania’s most improved road corridor as of 2024, benefiting from Chinese construction investment through the Tanzania National Roads Agency. The Arusha-Moshi section (90 km) is excellent dual carriageway tarmac. The Moshi-Korogwe section (200 km) continues on generally good single carriageway with some sections under repair. The most variable section is Korogwe-Segera-Chalinze (230 km) — road quality is acceptable but with occasional deep potholes and slower heavy truck traffic. The final approach to Dar es Salaam from Chalinze (70 km) is typically good tarmac but traffic near the city slows the final hour significantly (allow extra time from 15:00 onward for Dar entry traffic).
Key Stops
Moshi: Mount Kilimanjaro Views and Lunch Stop (90 km from Arusha)
Moshi is the gateway to Mount Kilimanjaro climbing and has excellent views of the mountain from town on clear mornings. The town is 38 km from Kilimanjaro International Airport. Fuel (Total, Shell, Petrol One), restaurants, and supermarkets. The Kahawa House café and several Ethiopian and Indian restaurants in the town centre are good lunch stops. Drive time from Arusha: 1-1.5 hours. Kilimanjaro’s glaciated summit is frequently cloud-free in early morning and evening, making a brief Moshi stop worthwhile for photography before continuing south.
Mombo/Same: Halfway Point (250 km from Arusha)
Same and Mombo are small towns in the Usambara Mountains foothills. The Usambara Mountains (visible to the east) are one of Tanzania’s hidden gems — mist-covered limestone ridges with endemic birds (Usambara thrush, Usambara akalat) and cool temperatures year-round. A detour into the Usambaras via Lushoto town (33 km east of Mombo) adds a day to the journey but rewards with extraordinary highland scenery and the Lushoto Botanical Gardens. For drivers staying on the A23: fuel in Same, basic restaurants available.
Korogwe: The Junction Town (310 km from Arusha)
Korogwe is the major junction where the A23 branches — one road goes east to Tanga coast and the other continues south toward Chalinze. For Dar es Salaam, take the southern route via Segera. Fuel and accommodation available in Korogwe (New Forest Guesthouse, USD $20/night for budget travelers needing an overnight break).
Chalinze: Last Major Town Before Dar (560 km from Arusha)
Chalinze is 70 km north of Dar es Salaam and the traditional last fuelling stop before the city. The Total station at Chalinze is well-maintained and busy. Multiple fast food-style restaurants serve local food. This is the last realistic comfortable stop before Dar — from Chalinze, the road quality is generally good but traffic density increases significantly toward the city.
Driving Into Dar es Salaam: Traffic and Navigation
Dar es Salaam has one of East Africa’s worst traffic congestion situations. The city’s informal name “Bongo” (a Swahili word implying shrewdness — you need to be smart to navigate it) reflects local humour about the experience. On weekday afternoons (15:00-20:00), the A23 approach road and entry into the city can take 1.5-2 hours for the final 20 km. Plan arrival for the morning (before 11:00) or after 20:00 to avoid peak traffic. The Julius Nyerere Expressway (Tanzam Highway) from the north connects to the city’s main road network — follow signs for Msimbazi/Kariakoo/Hotel areas for central accommodation.
Dar es Salaam Accommodation for Safari Visitors in Transit
- Hyatt Regency Dar es Salaam: USD $200-280/night. Waterfront location, excellent facilities.
- Southern Sun Hotel: USD $130-180/night. Good mid-range, near the ferry terminal for Zanzibar.
- Protea Hotel by Marriott: USD $100-140/night. Reliable business-class hotel.
- Harbour View Suites: USD $60-80/night. Good value, central location.
Zanzibar ferries: Fast Cat and Azam Marine operate Dar-Zanzibar ferry services. The crossing takes 1.5-2 hours and costs USD $35-50. Ferry terminals are in the old city (Kivukoni) near the National Museum. If visiting Zanzibar after the Northern Circuit, leave your vehicle at secure parking (available at several Dar es Salaam hotels, approximately USD $5-10/day) rather than trying to take it across. Zanzibar island driving requires a separate permit and the ferry tariff for vehicles is significant. For a 3-4 day Zanzibar addition, hiring a local driver-guide on the island is more practical than bringing your mainland rental vehicle.
